I made this particular pattern in August 2015, about 2 weeks before Asylum. I had previously seen it made by a friend of mine when I was living in Sweden, and I had always thought it looked rather gorgeous. In my house it was referred to as ‘The Sweden Dress’ because rather than using the hideous pinks in the original pattern (see left) I chose to use blue and gold as my main colour choices, with a few bits of white lace to tie everything off.
First off, burda patterns in general. The very first pattern I remember making outside of school was a Burda pattern; a freebie from the burda website of a waistcoat. I still have the waistcoat somewhere: I made it using the fabric from some cargo trousers and an old pillowcase. It even made an appearance as part of my outfit in the sixth form production of Sleeping Beauty at my school.
Even so, I’m not really that keen on Burda. I always find the instructions to be a bit on the confusing side and usually I tend to find that there’s some instruction missing or that reads like it has been badly translated. At any rate – I tend to have more trouble with the patterns than I have with other patterns in general. Size-wise, they’re pretty much an exact fit for me, but somehow they feel very, very complicated.
Anyhow, back to the pattern itself. As mentioned, I chose a Blue, gold and white colour
palette. I only really made the jacket/blouse from this outfit, as I already had usable skirts from a few of my previous projects, though the skirt for this one isn’t exactly difficult ( just fabric-consuming!) I also put together my own bustle pattern to go with it, so overall I’ve only actually really used the jacket pieces. I’m considering using the bustle pad pattern to make the pad for my new lobster bustle, but I reckon that can wait really – it’s not wholly necessary.
I was quite pleased overall with this pattern. Yes, I cheated slightly by using popper tape instead of actual buttonholes ( I have real trouble with them ok? Where possible I cheat) but it still looks good now. I don’t have a good photograph of the back of it, but take it from me – it looks pretty decent.
Overall, I think this pattern when put together can look remarkably similar to Truly Victorian’s 1884 French Bodice but really, I kind of prefer the look of this one –
especially from the back. Over a corset it gets a smooth look and I’ve
had a couple of really gorgeous photos taken in it. It’s comfortable to wear as well, and it honestly is really easy to clean. It’s also fully lined with fabric that belonged to my grandmother, which is nice, as it was only after her passing in September 2014 that I really started sewing properly.
Recommendations with this pattern? Make the cuff pieces bigger, use the right interfacing and take your time to put the trimmings on properly. That trim took forever! The collar doesn’t like to lie properly either.
Will I make again? Almost definitely, but I need to find the right fabrics for it. Next time I want to make it in a completely different way!